Friday, November 15, 2013

Great Pacific Adventure


Great Pacific Adventure

By T.J. Schwanky

 

 

There are many towns and cities across British Columbia that claim to be the salmon capitol of the world but I’m not sure you’d find a place more deserving than Prince Rupert. This quaint little costal town has been the hub of salmon fishing activity since the late 1800s when countless commercial canneries dotted the nearby shorelines. While a profitable commercial fishery still exists in the region, it’s sport fishing now, however, that brings most fishermen to Prince Rupert. For some reason, I’d never fished this region so when SCI supporter, Jamie Hunt of Great Pacific Salmon Lodge suggested we come up and check out his new lodge, Vanessa and I jumped at the opportunity. We managed to talk a few friends into joining us and Jamie gave us run of the lodge. We’d be his only guests for four days.
 

Vanessa and I arrived a day early which gave us the opportunity to check out the town and enjoy some of the local fare. Right along the waterfront adjacent to our hotel was the Cow Bay Shopping District. This historic part of town offers a number of great shops and fabulous restaurants; the highlight of which was dinner at the Cow Bay Café. This tiny little restaurant is world renown for their fusion cuisine and reservations are an absolute must. The town is also rife with totem poles and being real fans of these Native monuments, Vanessa and I took a few hours to go check them out. Many were brought over from Vancouver Island and the Queen Charlottes many years ago and they are unquestionably some of the most incredible totem poles I’ve ever seen.

 

Spending a day in town was a great way to acclimate to the West Coast pace but we were ready to go fishing the following day. Great Pacific Salmon Lodge is the only lodge right in Prince Rupert. It is located on a sleepy little island directly across from town so despite Prince Rupert only being a few minute boat ride away, you still feel like you are in a wilderness setting. The lodge itself is a converted house and it offers all of the amenities, including a chef that offers up some of the most incredible West Coast cuisine. Jamie has a fleet of three well-appointed boats with guides and also offers a service for anglers wishing to utilize their own boats and fish on their own.

 

The first day found us heading north for a couple of hours and as we rounded the corner of a particularly rocky point, our guide, Matt Anderson, pointed to a steep rock wall. “We’ll start there.”

 

Matt worked quickly to set up a couple rods with cut-plug herring and in no time both downrigger cables were singing in the morning breeze. We were right at the tail end of the Chinook run and Coho could be seen jumping everywhere but Matt figured if we put our time in that we could still pick up some monster Chinook. Vanessa really had her heart set on catching a Tyee and of course there were the bragging rights that went along with hooking the biggest fish.

 

Just as Matt was heading back to grab the steering wheel, the first rod began to bounce. Vanessa picked it up out of the holder and under Matt’s careful supervision, reeled down until it was tight and then she set the hook hard and began feverishly reeling. In no time she had our first fish of the trip to the boat; a fat eight pound Coho.  For the next 30 minutes or so, we caught and released another half dozen Coho when Matt suddenly said, “Oh no.”

 

On the horizon, water spouts could be seen rising out of the water. They were moving ever closer and even this prairie boy knew that a pod of killer whales was on the way. I was actually pretty thrilled to see some whales but little did I realize that a pod of orcas moving through the fishing grounds is similar to a pack of wolves invading your favourite moose swamp. The whales passed beside and under the boat and Vanessa and I jockeyed for position to gain the best view for our cameras. We could feel the spray on our faces as the whales surfaced. Once the exhilaration of seeing them so close ended, however, the realization that our hotspot was now devoid of salmon became all too clear. Matt suggested we head out to deeper water and try our luck for halibut.

 

We enjoyed a great afternoon of halibut fishing and decided to head back to the lodge about 4:00 in the afternoon. Fishing camps with buddies are always a great time and this was no different. There were plenty of tales of the ones that got away and plenty too of the ones brought to the scale. Everyone had a great day, although it seemed the killer whales had made their presence known right down the coast. After an incredible meal of fresh Dungeness crab, we enjoyed an evening on the deck, watching the sun go down on Prince Rupert.

 

We were up early the next morning and Matt wanted to head right back to where we had started the day before and this time the horizon was clear of water spouts. It didn’t take long for Vanessa to hook into her first Chinook, a 24 pound beauty. I followed shortly after with a 26 pounder and then a number of boats started to slowly move in on our position. We’d had the spot all to ourselves but it was hard to hide the excitement of catching the big fish on the single-action reels. We continued to work the steep wall with cut plug but the action definitely slowed. A few of the boats around us were boating big fish and you could see Matt’s frustration was growing. He asked Vanessa to reel one of the rods in.

 

Matt rummaged through a tackle tray and pulled out a big Atomic plug. “Let’s try something different.”

 

It didn’t take long for the plug to hook up with a couple fat Coho but when the rod doubled over and the line began to sing as it spooled off the reel, we knew it wasn’t another Coho. Vanessa grabbed the rod and tried to get her palm on the spool without the wildly spinning handles removing the skin from her knuckles. This fish was different than any other we’d hooked so far and it led us on a wild chase down the rocky shoreline. Each time Vanessa would gain a few feet of precious line, the huge fish would take a few yards. While I’m sure it took no more than 15 or 20 minutes for Vanessa to get the big Chinook boat side, it seemed an eternity.  We all let out a big sigh of relief as Matt slipped the net under the behemoth. Vanessa had her Tyee and then some.

 

While we never did top the weight of Vanessa’s Atomic salmon, several more Tyee came to the boat and by the end of the third day we had caught several hundred fish I’m sure. Most went back to complete their journey up the nearby rivers to spawn, we did manage to bring home nearly 150 pounds of processed salmon and halibut. It had been several years since I’d last fished the Coast but this trip definitely reignited a passion for fishing these monsters of the West Coast. I will definitely be going back to fish with Jamie and the great crew at Great Pacific Salmon Lodge.

 

For more information on booking your own Great Pacific adventure, Contact Great Pacific Salmon Lodge, Jamie Hunt, at 1-855-227-4775 or check them out on-line at www.greatpacificsalmonlodge.com

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